소개
I’ve seen dozens of cruisers get stranded with a jammed anchor—not because the windlass failed, but because the battery feeding it gave up mid-hoist. You hear the sickening whine as voltage drops, chain grinds, and suddenly, the windlass just… stops. Out at sea, that moment feels like betrayal.
This article isn’t about how to choose a windlass. It’s about how to power one. We’ll get into battery pairing, wiring that silently sabotages performance, and why even a brand-new LiFePO4 bank might not save you. The core question: Is your windlass underpowered—and is your battery system silently to blame?
12V 200AH 리튬 배터리
Understanding Your Boat Windlass – What It Really Demands
What is a Boat Windlass and How Does It Work?
A windlass is essentially the muscle that manages your anchor—lowering it, holding it steady, and hauling it back up. You’ll find horizontal and vertical variants; electric or manual types. Horizontal windlasses are easier to install on flat decks, while vertical units offer better chain alignment into the locker.
But what matters is load. Anchoring in 20 feet of water on a calm day? Easy. Pulling 60 pounds of chain plus a 40-pound anchor in 30-knot wind? That’s a brutal power draw. Most electric windlasses operate between 500W and 1500W, which means 40–120A on a 12볼트 리튬 배터리 system.
| Boat Size | Windlass Power | Typical Current Draw |
|---|
| <25 ft | 500–700W | 40–60A |
| 30–40 ft | 800–1200W | 65–100A |
| >45 ft | 1500W+ | 100–150A+ |
What Happens When the Windlass is Undersupplied?
Here’s what I’ve seen firsthand:
- The windlass runs sluggishly, straining for each foot of chain.
- Relays overheat and click erratically.
- Voltage at the windlass terminals dips below 10.5V, tripping internal protection circuits.
A friend once lost control in a crowded anchorage when his windlass froze mid-hoist. A worn-out AGM battery dropped below threshold, and the solenoid fried under stress. They drifted, nearly collided, and spent 6 hours limping back on backup power.
How Much Power Does a Typical Windlass Consume?
Surge—or inrush—current is the initial kick of amps when the motor starts. It typically ranges from 1.5x to 3x the rated current, depending on load and mechanical resistance. I’ve measured about 2.5x the rated current at startup using an inline clamp meter. That means your 800W windlass could momentarily pull 150–180A.
Ongoing pull during steady retrieval is less, but if you anchor in kelp, mud, or have a fouled chain? Expect it to spike again.
Cite: Lewmar Pro-Series manual suggests 100A typical for 1000W units; Maxwell RC10 lists 110A; Quick’s Prince DP2 clocks in around 90A for a 1000W windlass.
Battery and Windlass: Getting the Pairing Right
What Size Battery Do You Need for a Windlass?
Here’s the blunt truth: most boaters guess. But the discharge rate matters more than raw amp-hours.
Your battery must deliver high current instantly. Starter batteries excel at this, but they’re not designed for deep cycles. Deep-cycle batteries, on the other hand, may sag under short bursts.
Lithium changes the game. It delivers high amps with minimal voltage drop—but only if your BMS allows it.
Example sizing:
- 1000W windlass at 12V = ~83A load
- Assume 3–4 minutes of lift time = ~5.5Ah per drop/lift
- Multiply by 3 anchor cycles per day = ~16.5Ah/day draw
A 12V 100Ah 리튬 배터리 might handle this—만약 its specifications list a surge current rating of 150A or higher for 10 seconds. Keep in mind, battery capacity (Ah) doesn’t directly indicate discharge capability; always check the max continuous and surge discharge specs before relying on it. Many can’t.
Can You Use a Lithium Battery (LiFePO4) for a Windlass?
Yes—and I do. But here’s where the industry gets it wrong.
Many lithium batteries have internal BMS protection limits. If your windlass spikes to 180A but your battery’s max continuous is 12v 100A Lithium Battery and surge limit is 120A, the BMS cuts off mid-hoist.
That’s catastrophic. You need a battery designed for surge load, not just continuous draw. Check the spec sheets. If it doesn’t list surge amps, walk away.
Frankly, I suspect some “marine lithium” sellers just slap stickers on cells never meant for anchor duty.
How Long Will My Battery Last When Operating a Windlass?
Table time:
| Battery Size | Anchor Drop/Lift (600W Load) | Cycles/day | Temp | Battery Usage |
|---|
| 12V 100Ah AGM Battery | ~10Ah per cycle | 3 | 0°C | 30% SoC |
| 12V 200Ah LiFePO4 Battery | ~6Ah per cycle (less sag) | 3 | 25°C | ~9% SoC |
Note: These figures are estimates and can vary depending on anchor weight, cable length, battery age, temperature, and operating conditions.
Lower temps, longer cables, and older batteries all increase consumption.
Common Misconceptions About Windlass Power Systems
- “Bigger battery = better”? Not if you ignore surge capacity. A 300Ah battery with 80A surge limit is still a fail.
- “Solar covers it”? Not in real-time. Solar works best to replenish energy over time—windlass demands high surge power instantly.
- “Lead acid is safer”? Maybe. But smart lithium systems with fuses and conservative surge design? Just as safe—and faster to recharge.
Optimizing the Entire Power System for Your Windlass
Windlass Wiring: Voltage Drop is the Silent Killer
You lose ~0.25V per 10 feet with undersized cable. At 100A, that’s huge.
- 2 AWG for <10 ft
- 1/0 AWG for 15–20 ft
Use tinned marine cable. Fuse at the battery 및 near the windlass. I once saw a boat catch fire from a corroded connection acting like a resistor.
Windlass Location vs Battery Bank – Why It Matters
If your battery is aft and windlass is forward? That’s 30+ feet of cable round-trip. Voltage loss becomes brutal.
I now install dedicated forward batteries in high-demand setups. Isolated with a DC-DC charger. Cuts cable length, improves surge handling, and reduces fire risk.
Solar won’t save your windlass alone. But paired with an alternator? It’s magic.
- Cloudy day, late anchor drop? Alternator tops up house + windlass bank.
- Morning sun handles recharge by noon.
My Personal Setup – And What I’d Never Do Again
Years ago, I wired a windlass with 4 AWG cable, 30 ft run, powered off my aft AGM bank. It worked—for a month. Then winter hit. Voltage sag. Delayed hoists. I melted a solenoid in the Bahamas.
Now? 12v 200Ah LiFePO4 Battery forward bank. DC-DC from house. Oversized fuse, 1/0 cable, smart relay. I haven’t touched the system in 3 years.
Future-Proofing: The Evolution of Windlass Power Tech
Smart Windlasses and Remote Load Monitoring
Some modern windlasses now integrate Bluetooth monitoring. You get:
- Live current draw
- Stall warnings
- Predictive maintenance alerts
It’s like a Fitbit for your windlass. Why didn’t we have this in 2005?
Dual Battery Bank Isolation for Windlass Loads
Especially on charter or catamarans:
- House bank handles fridges, nav
- Windlass bank dedicated and isolated
Less risk of full-bank brownouts. Cleaner diagnostics. Easier troubleshooting.
Is the Industry Overlooking Surge Tolerance in Battery Design?
I believe so. Most certification (e.g., UL 1973) focuses on continuous discharge.
But marine windlasses are all about short bursts.
Why aren’t battery vendors publishing peak discharge charts? Or validating their batteries against anchor winch duty cycles?
My gut tells me this will unfold differently: in 5 years, surge-rated lithiums will be the norm. Right now, we’re pretending it doesn’t matter.
결론
Your windlass is only as good as its power. And power isn’t about amp-hours—it’s about current, cable, location, and planning.
If you’re second-guessing your windlass setup, you’re already too late.
Design it once. Overspec it. Sleep easy when the wind’s blowing 30 knots and you’re hauling anchor in the dark.
Remember: battery selection for windlass operation should always be based on validated discharge specs, including surge current tolerance—not just nominal capacity or chemistry.
자주 묻는 질문
Can I Use My House Battery for the Windlass?
Yes, but beware of voltage drop and system brownouts. Dedicated forward battery preferred.
How Do I Know If My Windlass Is Undersized?
If it hesitates during lift, heats up quickly, or consistently trips breakers—it’s underpowered.
Do I Need a Separate Circuit Breaker for a Windlass?
Yes. Inline fuse near the battery 및 near the windlass. Match to wire gauge and peak current.
Can I Replace a Lead-Acid with Lithium for My Windlass?
Absolutely—but only if the BMS supports high surge discharge.
How Much Battery Does an Anchor Lift Actually Use?
Depends on power, weight, and lift time—but plan 5–10Ah per cycle for mid-sized boats.